{"id":8462,"date":"2012-10-04T18:42:00","date_gmt":"2012-10-04T16:42:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/basqueteam.eus\/?p=8462"},"modified":"2022-08-09T18:43:55","modified_gmt":"2022-08-09T16:43:55","slug":"inurrategi-vallejo-y-zabalza-regresan-al-campamento-tras-pasar-tres-noches-en-altura","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/basqueteam.eus\/eu\/blog\/inurrategi-vallejo-y-zabalza-regresan-al-campamento-tras-pasar-tres-noches-en-altura\/","title":{"rendered":"I\u00f1urrategi, Vallejo eta Zabalza kanpalekura itzuli dira altueran hiru gau igaro ondoren"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ibilbidea azteru eta gero Nuptsera bide britaniarretik igotzea erabaki dute<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2012ko urriaren 4an.-Island Peak mendian altuerara egokitzeko prozesuarekin hasi ondoren, Naturgas\/BBK Nuptse 2012 espedizioko kideek atseden gutxi hartu zuten, 24 ordu eskas, berriz ere astelehen eguerdian Nuptseko hegoaldeko hegalera abiatuz. Bertan, bide britaniarrean, Walmsley eta Bonigton-en gidaritzapean 1961an zabaldutakoa, hiru gau igaro dituzte 5.200, 5.800 eta 6.300 metrora hurrenez hurren eta helburua guztiz zehaztuta itzuli dira oinarrizko kanpalekura: Bide bera egitea erabaki dute baina alpetar erara tontorreraino (7.861 metro). Konpromiso handiko jarduera da, oso pareta altua eta teknikoa eta bidea ez dago baldintza onenetan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Astelehenean zailtasun gutxiko zoru malkartsu baten zehar ibilaldia burutu ostean, hurrengo metroetan esfortzu handiagoa eskatzen zuen egoerak, Mikel Zabalzak oinarrizko kanpalekutik adierazi digun bezala: \u201cLur eremua geroz eta harritsuagoa da eta penditza handikoa gainera, harriak solte dituelarik; oso deserosoa gainean 20 kiloko motxila eramateko\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bigarren gaua mendi-lepo baten pasa ondoren, 5.800 metrotik gorakoa, bidea zaila bezain ikusgarria suertatzen da, izotz eskaladarekin eta eguzkiak bigundutako elurra oso baldintza txarretan dagoelarik. Kontu handiz joan beharra dago, sahiesbideak ondo aukeratuz, eskakizun tekniko ikaragarria duten parajeak gaindituz eta ia zortzimilako baten altuera duena. \u201cAtzo, eskaladaren hirugarren egunean, haize nahiko bortitza hasi zen eta ez zen geratu. Gaur gauean, aristan geundela, ufada gogorrak jasan ditugu 6.300 metrora\u201d. Haizeak behintzat mendia garbituko du, goikaldean elurrez lepo baitago. 4 ordutan jeitsi dira gaur Chukung-era, oinarrizko kanpalekura iritsiz\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Badakite Nuptse alpetar erara igotzea (oxigenorik gabe, garraiatzailerik gabe, soka finkorik gabe eta altuerako kanpamentu egonkorrik gabe) konpromiso handiko erronka dela baina aldi berean \u201cguztia emateak\u201d motibatzen gaitu, dio Mikelek. Ezinbestekoa altueran aklimatazio egokia egitea, \u201cZenbait gau gehiago behar ditugu 6.500 metro ingurura eta prisarik gabe joan beharra daukagu; tontorretik gertu egin beharreko eskaladak guztioi dena ematea eskatuko digu\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pare bat eguneko atsedenaldia izango dute orain oinarrizko kanpalekuan, bide britaniarrean grabatutako irudiak editatzen emango dituzte hurrengo orduak. Irrikitan gaude ikusteko!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ibilbidea azteru eta gero Nuptsera bide britaniarretik igotzea erabaki dute 2012ko urriaren 4an.-Island Peak mendian altuerara egokitzeko prozesuarekin hasi ondoren, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":8431,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8462","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kategoriarik-gabe"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nI\u00f1urrategi, Vallejo eta Zabalza kanpalekura itzuli dira altueran hiru gau igaro ondoren - basqueteam<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/basqueteam.eus\/eu\/blog\/inurrategi-vallejo-y-zabalza-regresan-al-campamento-tras-pasar-tres-noches-en-altura\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"eu_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"I\u00f1urrategi, Vallejo eta Zabalza kanpalekura itzuli dira altueran hiru gau igaro ondoren - 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