{"id":8273,"date":"2013-06-30T17:10:00","date_gmt":"2013-06-30T15:10:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/basqueteam.eus\/?p=8273"},"modified":"2022-08-09T17:11:59","modified_gmt":"2022-08-09T15:11:59","slug":"todo-listo-para-darle-un-primer-intento-al-paiju-peak-afirman-inurrategi-vallejo-y-zabalza","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/basqueteam.eus\/eu\/blog\/todo-listo-para-darle-un-primer-intento-al-paiju-peak-afirman-inurrategi-vallejo-y-zabalza\/","title":{"rendered":"&#8220;Dena gertu Paiju Peaken lehen saiakera egiteko&#8221; I\u00f1urrategi, Vallejo eta Zabalzaren hitzetan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Oinarrizkoa Kanpalekura itzuli dira mendizaleak paretaren oinarrira, 5.000 metrora, beharko duten materiala garraiatu eta gero<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cDena gertu lehen saiakera egiteko. Larunbatean sartu ginen lehen aldiz paretan eta hasierako 300 metroetaraino eraman genuen materiala, tentuz ibili beharreko eremua izotza eta elurrarekin eta aparteko zailtasunik gabekoa. Argazkian ikusten den bezala eguraldi txarra izan genuen eta pareta ez zegoen baldintza onetan eskalatzeko. Eguraldia aldatzea espero dugu elurra eta izotza paretatik desargertarazteko, bestela jai daukagu. \u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Oinarrizko kanpalekuko dendetara itzuli dira Alberto I\u00f1urrategi, Juan Vallejo eta Mikel Zabalza (3.400 metrotan) hiru egunez beharko duten material guztia 5.000 metroetara eraman eta gero; 1.600 metroko desnibela eremu malkartsu, gogor eta markatu gabekoan. Paiju Peak-eko hegoaldeko aurpegian daude, 1976an ipar aurpegitik eskalada bakarra daukan 6.610 metroko erraldoian. Bashir Ahmed, Nazir Sabir eta Manzoor Hussain (egungo Pakistango Alpinisten Klubeko presidentea) pakistandarrek eta Allen Steck estatubatuarrak osatu zuten orduko kordada. Hegoaldeko saiakera berriz guztiz da ezezaguna, Albertok, Juanek eta Mikelek egun hauetan egiaztatu duten bezala eta ez omen da batere erraza mendiak ezkutatzen duena: \u201cBig Wall gogorra da\u201d Mikelen hitzetan, \u201csarbidea oso zaila baita. Zabaldu dugu behintzat eta oinarrizko kanpalekuan atseden egun batzuk hartuko ditugu orain, eta eguraldiak laguntzen badu, 1.000 metroko ezproia eskalatzen saiatuko gara gailurrera iristeko.\u201d 10-12 egun emango dituzte paretan, eginDako kalkuluen arabera, kapsula estiloa erabilita. 300 bat metro soka baliatuko dituzte horman ezarritako kanpalekuen artean gora eta behera errazago ibiltzeko. Eta, era berean, igo ahala bibakak horman bertan egin beharko dituztenez, material eta janari, zama astunagoa garraiatu beharko dute hamar-hamabi egun horietarako. Kranpoia eta pioletare laguntzarekin burutu beharko dituzte azken 600 metroak tontorrerako bidean.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Paiju Peak mendiaren hego aurpegiak goi-mailako eskalada eta alpinismoa uztartzeko osagai guztiak biltzen dituela jakitun: 1.0000 metrotik gorako harkaitzezko beso bertikalak eta eremu misto (izotza eta harkaitza) tente eta konpromiso handikoak, gailurrerako bidean. Laburbilduz, horma bertikal erraldoi bat mendiaren beheko aldean eta goi-mendiko pasarte oso zailak goialdean. \u201cKoktel perfektua\u201d Mikel Zabalzaren ustetan, \u201cZailtasunak eta esplorazioak erakartzen gaitu eta horrez gain altuera baldin badago, ezin hobeto\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pareta garbitu dezakeen eguraldi ona behar dute orain, lau egunez euria eta elurra bota ondoren. Hobekuntzak hirukoteaaren abentura ahalbidetuko luke, igo gabeko Paiju Peak mendiko hegoaldeko aurpegitik bide berri bat zabaltzea.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Oinarrizkoa Kanpalekura itzuli dira mendizaleak paretaren oinarrira, 5.000 metrora, beharko duten materiala garraiatu eta gero \u201cDena gertu lehen saiakera egiteko. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":8143,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8273","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kategoriarik-gabe"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>&quot;Dena gertu Paiju Peaken lehen saiakera egiteko&quot; I\u00f1urrategi, Vallejo eta Zabalzaren hitzetan - basqueteam<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/basqueteam.eus\/eu\/blog\/todo-listo-para-darle-un-primer-intento-al-paiju-peak-afirman-inurrategi-vallejo-y-zabalza\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"eu_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"&quot;Dena gertu Paiju Peaken lehen saiakera egiteko&quot; I\u00f1urrategi, Vallejo eta Zabalzaren hitzetan - basqueteam\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Oinarrizkoa Kanpalekura itzuli dira mendizaleak paretaren oinarrira, 5.000 metrora, beharko duten materiala garraiatu eta gero \u201cDena gertu lehen saiakera egiteko. 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